I first visited Tenerife back in 1994, and over the last thirty years, I’ve returned about twenty times. I like to think I know the island quite well, although my experience has mostly been confined to the south, where the popular beach resorts are. Until recently, my ventures included Playa San Juan on the west coast, a ride up the Teide cable car, and a bus trip to the capital, Santa Cruz.
However, I had never properly explored the north. So when Kirker Holidays proposed a trip there, it was a chance to see a side of Tenerife that many miss.
These trips tend to be short but packed with activities, starting with a 3 am wake-up call for an early flight from Gatwick. Our outbound flight with easyJet, a service we favour over British Airways, was quick, efficient, and on time.
Our first stop was La Calabacera, an organic farm on the west coast, nestled in the hills behind Playa San Juan (if you know where the Abama resort is, it’s nearby). This family-run operation grows the obligatory bananas, and we learned about their cultivation and the challenges they face, especially during water shortages. They also have vineyards and grow peppers, cucumbers, lychees, mangos, and limes. A highlight is their farm-to-table dining experience for groups over ten, offering a delightful lunch with produce from the estate and local areas.
La Calabacera, Tenerife
We then ascended further into the mountains to our main destination for the day: Teide National Park. As we climbed, the changing vegetation was striking, from pine forests to native succulents, finally reaching the Caldera.
Staying in the Caldera is truly unique, with the only accommodation being a Parador within the National Park. This simple three-star hotel offers good rooms and traditional, tasty food in its restaurant. The location provides stunning sunset views of the Roques de Garcia. A bonus is the stargazing experience, as the hotel is above the clouds with minimal light pollution. Guests receive an expert introduction to astronomy, learning to navigate the night sky in an unforgettable setting.
Parador de Las Canadas del Teide, Tenerife
The theme of nature continued upon us leaving the Teide National Park. Our drive was quite a distance to the Anaga Country Park, winding our way through the Caldera – seeing the different lava flows and the existence of pumice. As we made our way down the mountain towards the north, the weather changed as we headed through the cloud and started to rain intermittently, which is more typical of the north, especially at this time of year.
Anaga Country Park, located in the northeastern corner of Tenerife and not far from La Laguna is a natural reserve renowned for its stunning landscapes. It was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2015, Anaga is home to one of the most ancient and well-preserved laurel forests in the world, dating back millions of years. The park spans mountains, deep ravines, and lush green valleys, which is a favourite for hikers and nature enthusiasts.
View of La Laguna from Anaga
Below the park is La Laguna, which holds an important place in Tenerife’s history. Founded in 1496 by Alonso Fernández de Lugo, the city’s layout served as a blueprint for many colonial towns throughout the Americas. As the island’s first capital, La Laguna was the political and cultural centre of Tenerife until 1723, when the capital was moved to Santa Cruz.
La Laguna, Tenerife
The city’s historic quarter, with its well-preserved colonial architecture, has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status, reflecting its historical and architectural importance. Not more than the churches, the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, an architectural gem that combines Neoclassical and Gothic styles, and the Church of the Conception, renowned for its striking bell tower and beautifully preserved Mudejar wooden ceiling.
For the evening and the next couple of nights, we were staying at the Hotel Botanico in Puerto de la Cruz. Having opened in 1978, It was one of the first five-star hotels on the island and has one of the best reputations of hotels in the north of the island having over the decades hosted many celebrities and dignitaries including Michael Jackson. It’s also famous for being located opposite the renowned botanical gardens of which it derives its name. The hotel itself also features some beautifully landscaped gardens.
Hotel Botanico, Tenerife
The hotel is also well known for its expansive spa, the Oriental Spa Garden provides a calm escape with a number of different treatments, thermal circuits and wellness programmes. There is also a fitness centre, multiple swimming pools, tennis courts and other leisure facilities. You won’t go starving either, with excellent dining options including the Oriental-themed The Oriental, Mediterranean dished at Il Pappagallo, and Canadian specialities at La Parrilla. Rooms and suits are currently undergoing a renovation, which will now feature wood floors and larger bathrooms for standard rooms.
Overview of Hotel Botanico, Tenerife
Read more in Part 2: The Northern Towns and Villages
