Last week, we headed to Malta for the annual Advantage Conference. This year, slightly differently, there was a choice of pre-conference excursions, which I eagerly took up. Although a small island in the Med, Malta has a rich and fascinating history, and has lots of different influences. It’s very British, as you would expect and they drive on the left – so great if you want to go out and explore on your own.
Hagar Qim, Malta
The first stop on my ‘Cultural and Gastronomic Tour’ was Hagar Qim, which is one of Malta’s most extraordinary archaeological sites — a prehistoric temple complex that predates Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids.
Located on a clifftop overlooking the Mediterranean, just south-west of the village of Qrendi, the temple was first excavated in 1839, though its tallest stones were never fully buried, featuring in paintings and records from as early as the 18th century. Built during what’s known as the Ggantija phase (3600–3200 BC), the site is made up of several structures, the largest of which follows the classic layout of Malta’s megalithic temples, a curved forecourt leading to a monumental facade and a series of chambers arranged in a cloverleaf shape.
The craftsmanship is astonishing when you consider the tools available at the time. Some of the stones stand over five metres high, and the largest weighs an estimated 20 tonnes, all transported and erected without the use of metal tools or wheels. Walking through the site, you can still see decorative carvings, altars and the famous ‘oracle hole’, believed to have been used for rituals or communication between different chambers.
The positioning of the temple also suggests a deep understanding of astronomy, with its entrance aligned to the summer solstice sunrise.
The second stop was the ‘gastronomic part’ at Ta’ Ċiċivetta Farm, a hidden gem tucked into the rural outskirts of Rabat, in an area known as Ħofret ir-Rizz.
It’s the sort of place that feels genuinely untouched, surrounded by acres of land and framed by traditional dry stone walls. The farmhouse itself was originally built in 1914 and beautifully restored in 2019, with many original features carefully preserved — including a traditional Maltese water fountain that still works, quietly flowing beside the stone facade.
Ta’ Ċiċivetta Farm
The setting is effortlessly peaceful, with olive trees, citrus groves and terraced fields giving you a real sense of local agricultural life. Lunch here offers far more than just a good meal — it’s a warm and generous experience rooted in local tradition. You’ll enjoy seasonal Maltese dishes, much of it sourced from the farm itself or nearby producers. Expect a spread that might include freshly baked ftira (Maltese flatbread), sun-dried tomatoes, olive oil tastings, big salads bursting with herbs, grilled vegetables, and home-cooked specialities like rabbit stew or slow-roasted pork.
There’s a real family feel to it — relaxed, generous, and full of heart. You’re just as likely to be invited into the kitchen to hear how something’s made as you are to sit back under the vines with a glass of local wine in hand. It’s exactly the kind of place that showcases Maltese hospitality at its best: informal but thoughtful, with a deep respect for the land and the people who’ve worked it for generations.
St Pauls Catacombs
The final stop on the tour was at St. Paul’s Catacombs, offering a fascinating glimpse into Malta’s early Christian past, tucked just beneath the surface in the town of Rabat.
The sprawling underground complex is the largest of its kind on the island, comprising over 30 interconnected burial chambers spread across more than 2,000 square metres. The catacombs were in use from around the 3rd to the 8th century AD and represent the earliest evidence of Christianity in Malta, at a time when Roman influence was still strong.
These were not hidden places of worship, as sometimes imagined, but communal burial sites designed to reflect equality in death. Rich or poor, the chambers were carved from the same rock and laid out in the same modest style. That said, there are clues that some families left personal touches: stone tables for funeral rites, carved scallop shells (a symbol of pilgrimage), and occasional inscriptions or painted decorations. Some chambers even feature agape tables, where relatives would gather to honour the dead with shared meals, blurring the lines between ritual and remembrance.
All of these come highly recommended to show a different side to an island you may think you already know, but in reality, there is so much more to share in Malta – a really welcoming and historic destination.
