Day 1 – Discovering Oslo on Foot
We kicked off our first full day in Oslo with a three-hour walking tour, organised by GRJ, which proved to be a great introduction to the city. With our knowledgeable local guide and a small group, we were able to orient ourselves while learning about the fascinating contrasts between Oslo’s modern and historical sides.
The tour began in the modern quarter, where striking architecture dominates the skyline. The Munch Museum and the Opera House, an interesting white structure that seems to rise directly from the water like an iceberg, immediately impressed us. Just beyond, cool residential blocks and contemporary cultural spaces highlighted Oslo’s commitment to urban design and sustainability.
From there, we headed to the historic old city. Akershus Fortress, with its medieval castle walls, offered a glimpse into Oslo’s storied past. We wandered through cobbled paths and admired the defensive structures that have stood for centuries.
The tour concluded in the city centre, where Norway’s Parliament building and the Nobel Peace Centre showcased the country’s strong democratic and humanitarian traditions. It felt like we had walked through centuries of history in just a few hours.
Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves with a classic Oslo experience: a basket of fresh shrimp enjoyed outdoors in the Majorstuen area. Sitting in the sunshine by the waterside, a glorious lunchtime.
The evening brought a highlight we had planned a few weeks in advance: tickets to a live jazz concert at the Opera House. The performance featured saxophonist Marius Neset and pianist Leif Ove Andsnes. The combination of contemporary music, stunning architecture, and an appreciative Norwegian audience created a magical atmosphere. Neset’s saxophone solos were simply spellbinding, certainly a night to remember.
Day 2 – Adventures Above and Around Oslo
Our second day in Oslo was left free for our own explorations, and we decided to be in the fresh air all day, making the most of the fantastic weather.
We headed up to the Holmenkollen, home to the famous ski jump that dominates the hillside. The views over Oslo and its fjord were breathtaking, but nothing compared to standing at the top of the jump and imagining the courage it must take to launch down such a steep slope. For thrill-seekers, there’s even a zipline down the jump tower.
Watching others brave it was almost as entertaining as the ride itself.
Getting there was easy thanks to Oslo’s efficient transport system. A 24-hour pass (purchased on the Ruter app for about £15) covered all trains, buses, and trams within Zone 1. A tip for future travellers: this pass is incredible value and makes exploring Oslo stress-free.
Back in the city, we treated ourselves to what turned out to be the best seafood lunch of the trip at Fiskeriet. Tucked away in a quiet square, this restaurant was a gem. The shrimp, oysters, crab, and mussels were divine, fresher and cheaper than many of the more touristy options nearby.
In the afternoon, we boarded the island-hopping boat from Pier B1. The electric ferries are part of the public transport system. We hopped off at the first island and spent an hour strolling past colourful summer cottages. Life here seemed so peaceful and we couldn’t help but feel envious of the locals. Back on board, we continued sailing past other islands, soaking up the evening sunshine.
Day 3 – The Scenic Bergen Railway
Day three began early, as we boarded the Bergen Line, one of Europe’s most famous railway journeys, included in our GRJ itinerary.
The trip from Oslo to Bergen takes about seven hours, passing through 182 tunnels (not that I was counting!) and offering some of the most dramatic landscapes imaginable. Rivers, pine forests, mountain plateaus, and even snow-capped peaks all appeared outside our window in a constantly changing landscape. The highest point of the journey reaches 1,222 meters above sea level, which explained why there was snow on the ground even in summer.
For photography lovers, I’d recommend sitting on the left side of the train or occasionally heading to the cycle carriage, where large windows offer unobstructed views.
Arriving in Bergen mid-afternoon, we checked into our hotel and immediately set out to explore. Our first stop was the Fløibanen Funicular, which whisked us up to Mount Fløyen in just 15 minutes. From the top, Bergen below us: a patchwork of red-roofed houses, harbour docks, and surrounding mountains. We stayed with a glass of wine and even a celebratory champagne at the mountaintop restaurant while admiring the view. Don’t miss the friendly goats that wander near the summit they’ve become something of a local attraction.
Back down in town, dinner was all about seafood again. The bustling fish market by the harbour was our pick, where we tucked into piles of prawns, cracked open crab claws, and pulled out sweet, lengthy strands of crab leg meat. Bergen knows how to do seafood, and we were more than happy to indulge.
Day 4 – Bergen’s History and Charm
The next morning began with a walking tour organised by Great Railway Journeys, lasting about two hours. Bergen’s history is as rich as its scenery, and our guide took us from the old royal palace to the famous wooden Bryggen houses, now UNESCO-listed reminders of Bergen’s Hanseatic past. Their crooked timber frames and colourful facades were irresistibly photogenic. We also wandered through gardens and squares, learning how Bergen has balanced modern city life with its centuries-old heritage.
The afternoon was free for shopping and relaxing. We browsed local stores near the docks, then found ourselves back at Bryggen, this time seated outside with drinks in hand.
Day 5 – The Flåm Railway and a Fjord Cruise
Our final full day in Norway promised yet another unforgettable experience: the journey to Flåm.
We began with a train to Myrdal, where we transferred to the legendary Flåm Railway. This 20-kilometre stretch is one of the steepest standard-gauge railway lines in the world, dropping 865 meters from mountain plateau to fjordside. The train itself was a delight, with wooden carriages, huge picture windows, and a nostalgic feel.
Every passenger seemed as excited as we were, craning necks at waterfalls and rushing to the windows for photos. The landscapes were almost overwhelming in their beauty: plunging valleys, foaming rivers, and tiny hamlets clinging to the slopes.
After a saunter around Flåm, a charming village at the head of a fjord, we took the alternative return journey by fjord cruise. This was a truly outstanding two-hour experience: gliding along calm waters, so close to towering mountain sides that you could almost reach out and touch them. It was the perfect finale to our Norwegian adventure.
