In an earlier entry, I wrote about our journey around the Ria Formosa and its scattered islands, but it would be impossible to talk about that part of the Algarve without mentioning Olhão. This isn’t your polished, tourist-heavy resort town. Olhão is the real deal — a proper working fishing town with bags of character and a rhythm all its own.
From the moment we arrived, there was a wonderful atmosphere. The harbour’s always busy — not in a chaotic way, you get the feeling that it’s what people have done for generations. It’s most alive on Saturday mornings when the market kicks off.
Housed in two striking red-brick buildings right on the waterfront, the market is easily one of the best I’ve seen. One side is stacked with everything fresh from the sea — octopus, sardines, clams still twitching — while the other is a celebration of local produce, from plump tomatoes and cured meats to stacks of herbs and cheeses. It’s noisy, it smells incredible, and it’s where the locals shop — which tells you everything you need to know.
We stayed in a small guesthouse just off the main street — nothing flashy, but perfectly placed for wandering around. You could roll out the door and be at a bar, a restaurant, or straight across the road into the market. It had a proper neighbourhood feel — not polished, but full of charm. The kind of place where people nod at you in the street after they’ve seen you once.
What also surprised me was how creative the town is. Tucked between the cafés and tiled buildings, you’ll find small studios and galleries. We visited 4Elementos and Atelier ZEA — both full of beautiful ceramics and pieces that felt rooted in the area’s identity. You can even have a go yourself; we spent an afternoon making mosaic tiles, which was a great way to slow down and connect with the place.
And when you’re ready to explore a bit further, Olhão’s really well connected — just 15 minutes from Faro airport and right on the train line. But honestly, once you’re there, you don’t feel like leaving in a hurry.
