After our couple of nights at the lovely Waldhaus Sils, it was an early morning start to catch my highlight of the trip – the iconic Glacier Express. This, one of the most famous scenic railway journeys in the world, traversing across the Swiss countryside from nearby St Moritz. The first of four trains for the day, as we make our way to Lenk in Simmertal, in the Bernese Oberland.
We had a very early start, with the train leaving at 07:07 am from St Moritz – although it’s an easy 15-minute journey from the Waldhaus, which provided their shuttle to the train station. Like elsewhere in Switzerland, getting on trains is extremely easy, and it’s just a few steps from where you are dropped off to getting on the train. As we were quite early, we had the opportunity to take some photos from the outside.
Before Joining the Glacier Express
Widely considered one of the world’s great train journeys, the Glacier Express offers a full-day panorama of the Swiss Alps, and some of the most dramatic scenery you’ll find on any rail journey in Europe. The route from St. Moritz to Brig takes around 6.5 hours, winding through a constantly shifting landscape of high mountain passes, deep valleys, gorges and river-cut ravines, and for us all viewed from the comfort of our First Class seat with tall panoramic windows on either side.
In First Class, the seating is spacious and arranged in a 2+1 configuration, which means more legroom and less crowding than in Second Class. The large picture windows stretch almost up to the ceiling, giving uninterrupted views of snow-capped peaks, glacial streams, pine forests and charming alpine villages as you travel through the heart of Graubünden and Valais. Seats are fully reserved, with tables suitable for meals, drinks, or simply propping up a travel journal or guidebook. The atmosphere is elegant but relaxed – ideal for settling in with a coffee or glass of wine while the landscape shifts dramatically outside.
Although it wasn’t available on our service (and isn’t available on every single service), Elegance Class offers a travel experience that’s a step above First Class. With just 20 seats, this exclusive carriage features luxurious, leather-clad reclining armchairs in a spacious 1+1 layout, guaranteeing every guest a window seat and maximum privacy. The design is sleek and contemporary, with gold accents, fine detailing, and soft ambient lighting that sets a relaxed tone throughout the journey. Guests enjoy personalised at-seat service, a multi-course gourmet menu with wine pairings, and a welcome drink on boarding – all included. There’s also access to a digital infotainment system, USB charging, and generous legroom to stretch out and take in the ever-changing Swiss landscapes.
The route itself is part of the magic. From St. Moritz, the train heads through the Albula Tunnel on the UNESCO-listed Albula Line, famed for its spiral tunnels and grand stone viaducts that also include the photogenic Landwasser Viaduct (the same line we went up to St Moritz). After changing from the Rhine to the Rhône watershed, the train crosses the Oberalp Pass, the highest point of the journey at over 2,000 metres above sea level, often blanketed in snow well into spring (although it wasn’t really when we were there in early June). From there, it descends past Andermatt and the dramatic Furka Valley, gliding through gorges and cliff-hugging tracks until it finally arrives in Brig, with its medieval quarter and easy connections into the Valais region or onwards to Zermatt.
Onboard, the à la carte dining service adds to the experience where hot meals are freshly prepared in the onboard kitchen and served directly to your seat. We had a Chicken Curry, but they also serve dishes like veal ragout, mountain cheese spaetzle or rösti with mushrooms, paired with a good Swiss wine or a local beer. There’s also an option to pre-book a three-course lunch or a regional tasting menu. Service is attentive, with staff on hand to offer commentary through the complimentary audio guide, pointing out the most scenic highlights and historical landmarks along the route. It really is one of those one-in-a-lifetime experiences that you’ll never forget, be it whatever time of year.
On arrival in Brig, we had to make a quick dash to get our connecting train to Speiz. The connection was only five minutes, but meant changing from outside the train station to inside, but perfectly doable. This was our connection to Speiz to pick up the second famous train of the day – the Goldenpass Express.
The stretch of the GoldenPass Express between Spiez and Zweisimmen is not as spectacular as the Glacier Express, but this short part of the line offers a uniquely Swiss vista of vineyards, rolling pastures and alpine peaks passing through the heart of the Bernese Oberland.
Departing from Spiez on the edge of Lake Thun, the train heads into the Simmental valley. On clear days, there are views back across the lake towards the Niesen – a pyramid-shaped mountain often called the ‘Swiss Pyramid’ and a steady parade of timber-framed villages and hillside chalets. Once again we used our First Class Swiss Rail Pass, where First and Prestige Class passengers benefit from extra-wide seats, at-seat service, and an immersive viewing experience. These new trains are very similar internally to the Glacier Express.
The last leg of the journey was from Zweisimmen to Lenk, although as a local commuter train, there isn’t a first class section available here. It doesn’t really matter too much though as it only takes about half an hour as it follows the River Simme towards the Wildstubel massif, the most impressive mountain overlooking the village of Lenk. Conveniently, the train station is in the heart of the village, and just a few minutes drive to our next hotel for the remaining two nights, the lovely Lenkerhof.
Next week, we’ll have more about our my stay at the Lenkerhof in Lenk, a less well-known corner of the Bernese Oberland and the journey back to Zurich Airport.
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