I’ve just returned from five truly memorable days in Switzerland with Kirker Holidays, exploring some of the most iconic rail journeys in the world and staying in two contrasting yet equally captivating regions of the country. There’s so much to share that I’ll be spreading the journey over three weeks, starting with our route to St. Moritz and a stay at the remarkable Hotel Waldhaus in Sils-Maria.
We flew with British Airways into Zurich Airport, where the ease of Swiss transport becomes apparent almost immediately. The airport’s railway station is seamlessly integrated into the terminal, just across the concourse from Swiss’ check-in desks and a short walk from Terminal 2. Within minutes of landing, we were stepping aboard our first train of the day: a quick connection into Zurich Hauptbahnhof to join the mainline service to Chur.
The route to Chur is far from a simple transfer – it’s a scenic delight in its own right. The train skirts the shores of Lake Zurich, dotted with pretty lakeside towns, before winding through the Linth Valley and alongside the Rhine River as it approaches Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city. From here, we joined the Albula Line, a celebrated part of the Rhaetian Railway and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. This remarkable stretch of track was engineered in the early 1900s to connect the Engadin region with the rest of the country, and it’s now regarded as one of the most scenic railways in the world. The journey includes the iconic Landwasser Viaduct, dramatic gorges, and a series of spiral tunnels that help manage the steep gradients with elegant precision.
Our home for the next two nights was the Hotel Waldhaus in Sils-Maria, about 15 minutes from St. Moritz – but a world apart in atmosphere. Opened in 1908, the Waldhaus has been run by the same family for five generations. The building itself is both stately and inviting, when they selected a spectacular hillside location above Lake Sils, and worked with Zurich architect Karl Koller to design a grand building that offered breathtaking views from every room. Its opening marked the arrival of a new kind of alpine hotel – both commanding and elegant, yet welcoming to cultured travellers seeking nature, peace and refinement.
From the start, the Waldhaus distinguished itself with thoughtful details – not only in architecture and layout, but in its atmosphere. The hotel quickly became known for its combination of high standards and warm, personal hospitality. Its position above the village gave it a strong identity, slightly apart from the bustle of St. Moritz, while still benefiting from the region’s appeal. Over the years, it attracted writers, musicians, academics, and artists, many of whom became loyal regulars.
In 1927, a significant fire destroyed the roof and top floors of the hotel, but the family rebuilt it swiftly, true to the original design. Rather than diminish the hotel’s reputation, the restoration reinforced the family’s commitment to its legacy. Over time, rooms were updated and facilities expanded, but always with great care to preserve the Waldhaus’s distinctive character and sense of history.
A defining feature of the Waldhaus is its continuity of ownership. It has remained in the hands of the same family for five generations. Each generation has brought something new while respecting the vision of Josef and Amalie. From careful modernisation of the interiors to improvements in infrastructure and guest facilities, the hotel has evolved gently and sympathetically over more than a century.
The Waldhaus is also home to a Welte-Mignon reproducing piano, installed in the early years and still operational. This rare instrument symbolises the hotel’s blend of heritage and refinement. Where guests have long been drawn not only by the views and comfort, but also by the intellectual and cultural tone that the hotel enoys with readings, concerts and a strong library forming part of its appeal.
Today, the Waldhaus remains proudly independent, managed by Claudio and Patrick Dietrich, descendants of the original founders. It continues to welcome returning guests and new visitors alike with the same commitment to quiet luxury and tradition.
The hotel’s rooms are divided into three main design categories: Classic, with timeless and elegant furnishings; Modern, which are newly updated with clean lines and contemporary touches; and Nostalgic, which preserve original features wherever possible – think vintage light switches, period bathrooms, and historically inspired décor. Room categories range from standard and superior rooms to junior suites, some of which can be interconnected for families or larger groups. There’s a rare sense of individuality here – no two rooms are quite the same, and each carries its own story.
Hotel Waldhaus, Classic Room
On our first evening, we were treated to an intimate Chef’s Table experience, seated alongside two charming German couples. We enjoyed a beautifully crafted six-course tasting menu, all prepared in front of us in the hotel’s main kitchen. The food was superb – creative but rooted in alpine tradition – and we were also invited to explore the hotel’s extensive wine cellar, which holds thousands of bottles and is lovingly curated. Dinner on our second night was served in the main dining room, which offers a more classic ambience and an equally excellent, seasonal à la carte menu that changes regularly.
Chef’s Table – Waldhaus
The hotel’s facilities are superb, particularly the three-level spa and wellness area, which includes both indoor and outdoor pools, a Jacuzzi, steam rooms, saunas, and a peaceful relaxation pool. There’s also a gym, yoga studio, and a mini-golf course tucked just behind the sun terrace – an unexpectedly delightful addition.
If you would like to learn more about the fascinating history of the Waldhaus Sils, this booklet I was given at the hotel, dives further into its origins and the history over the last one hundred and twenty years.
The surrounding area is ideal for walking and exploring. From the hotel doorstep, you can pick up several well-marked hiking trails. I opted for a gentle two-hour circuit around Lake Sils, which offered sweeping views and plenty of quiet corners to pause and take it all in. On our second morning, we took the hotel’s private transfer down to the village to catch the local bus into St. Moritz, where we boarded the funicular up to Muottas Muragl. From the top, the views are nothing short of spectacular – panoramic vistas over the Upper Engadin Valley, the lakes, and even into northern Italy on a clear day. There’s also a restaurant at the summit, making it the perfect spot for a light lunch or a moment of calm with coffee and cake.
Next week, I’ll be sharing the next leg of our journey, where we travel aboard the legendary Glacier Express and the equally scenic GoldenPass Express to our next Alpine destination. Switzerland is a country best discovered slowly, and when you travel by train, every mile brings something new.
ashley@traveltimeworld.co.uk
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