After a long day on the railways, we arrived in beautiful Lenk. This isn’t really an area where many British travellers venture, many of whom head to nearby Gstaad or Wengen – having been to neither, first impressions are really good as you feel like you’re in a traditional Swiss village, rather than being in a tourist centre. Located in the heart of Lenk, the Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort is a brilliant blend of five-star comfort, alpine character and understated indulgence. It’s like arriving home and the sort of place you’re equally likely to find guests arriving in ski gear or bathrobes.
Lenkerhof Lobby
There are a number of different styles of rooms, 83 in total, from cosy singles for solo travellers to family-friendly junior suites and indulgent corner or spa suites with open fireplaces and freestanding tubs. Some rooms are smart and contemporary, others are more traditional in style (depending on whether they are in the old or new part of the hotel), but all are extremely comfortable. Several have balconies, and some of the larger suites offer sweeping views across the valley.
My Room, A Junior Suite
Being a Relais and Chateaux hotel. of course, the food is a real highlight. There’s the Spettacolo restaurant, where every evening brings a changing menu of gourmet Swiss and international dishes, with the option to mix and match courses to suit your taste. Then there’s Oh de Vie, a stylish take on Italian and Mediterranean cuisine with a local twist. There’s also a lounge bar with live music, perfect for a quiet drink after a day in the mountains.
Its highlight is undoubtedly the 7sources Spa, named after the local springs that feed its pools and treatments. Set across multiple levels, the wellness area includes an outdoor sulphur pool, an indoor pool, saunas, steam rooms, and an extensive relaxation area. There’s a full menu of treatments, from massages to facials, wraps and scrubs – ideal after a long hike or a morning on the slopes. The fitness area is also well-equipped, with group classes including yoga, stretching and aqua-fit, depending on the season.
Breakfast on the Terrace
We had a leisurely start to the next morning, with a lovely breakfast overlooking the valley, as today we were heading up the mountain, with the gondola located right next door to the hotel. The Betelberg is Lenk’s local mountain and a fantastic spot for family-friendly alpine fun and panoramic hikes. Located directly above the village, it’s easily reached via the Lenk–Betelberg gondola lift. The modern 10-person gondola takes you up to Leiterli at 1,943 metres, and the ride itself is a treat, offering wide views over the Simmental valley and surrounding peaks. If you’re using the Simmental Guest Card, the cable car is often discounted or even free in summer, making it even more worthwhile to include a visit to Betelberg in your stay.
At the top of Betelberg
At the top, you’ll find yourself in a gently rolling alpine landscape, ideal for walking trails, picnics, and leisurely exploring. There are several family-oriented attractions in summer, including the AlpKultur discovery trail, a small mountain restaurant (where we had a very nice lunch), and interactive nature stations for children. It’s a great base for light hikes or for simply soaking up the mountain views without needing serious gear or fitness levels.
Now, given my previous track record with bikes abroad, you would think that I’m slightly mad by taking one of their Trotti Bikes back down the mountain. These are oversized scooters with chunky tyres (and brakes!) are available to rent at the top station and follow a designated 9 km path down the mountain. It’s suitable for most ages (children over a certain height/age can ride solo; smaller kids can ride with an adult), and helmets are provided. The ride down takes about 30–45 minutes, depending on your pace and includes wide alpine tracks, forest paths, and open meadows. However, it wouldn’t surprise you to know that I crashed on some loose gravel just a couple of turns downhill, and then picked up a puncture halfway down – I just don’t have the luck!
Trotti Bikes
As something different, and as the group had not had a fondue, our second evening was spent at its Bühlberg mountain restaurant, on the opposite side of the valley (which takes about 15 minutes by road). Here you can sit out on the terrace and enjoy hearty alpine favourites with panoramic views of the Simmental peaks, and for us, the most amazing sunset over the valley. Whilst the group enjoyed a fondue (for those who know me, I don’t eat cheese), they made a special Rosti with crispy bacon, which I have to say was the favourite meal of the whole trip – amazing!
Our trip was quickly coming to an end, and with five trains to catch in one day back to Zurich Airport, we took the opportunity to use the ‘Fly Rail’ luggage service. Our bags were picked up from the hotel at 7 am, so we didn’t have to carry them on and off the trains all day, and would turn up at Zurich Airport in time for our flight in the early evening.
With a later start, our first train of course was the commuter train in order to get back to Zweisimmen – a very leisurely 10:30am, and then connecting back to Speiz to get the third iconic train of the trip – the Lucerne to Interlaken Express from Interlaken. The stretch from Interlaken to Lucerne is lovely, a gentle but consistently beautiful two-hour ride through waterfalls, lakes, and rolling green valleys.
Departing from Interlaken Ost, the train begins its climb into the mountains along the Brünig Line, a narrow-gauge track operated by the Zentralbahn. The route passes through valleys lined with chalet villages and grazing meadows, with views of distant peaks peeking through. It passes along Lake Brienz, with its bright turquoise waters and the dramatic climb to the Brünig Pass, which sits just over 1,000 metres above sea level. This, the only place where one of Switzerland’s standard trains uses rack-and-pinion technology, allowing the train to handle steeper gradients. It then passes through Meiringen, a village forever linked with Sherlock Holmes, gorges, waterfalls, and wide mountain vistas.
The descent from the Brünig Pass brings you alongside the peaceful Lake Lungern, often glassy and still in the morning, followed by Lake Sarnen, with its picture-perfect shoreline. The landscape gradually softens – pine forests give way to neat farmland, lakeside villages and church spires, and before long, you’re gliding into the final approach to Lucerne. The views over Lake Lucerne as you arrive are perfect!
Our final train, after a quick visit to the Chapel Bridge in Lucerne took us back to Zurich Airport, again another very comfortable journey in First Class using the rail pass – and most of all – on time! Plus, guess what was waiting for us at the airport – yes, you’ve got it right, our luggage!
Chapel Bridge, Lucerne
Switzerland is a fabulous destination, often overlooked by its near neighbours Italy and Germany, but it really is a fabulous destination. The train network is everything is says it is, and so efficient, and the iconic train journeys are a must-do at least once and even better if its for a special occasion – it really is worth the money and effort in getting around.
You can follow in my footsteps – click here for more details.
ashley@traveltimeworld.co.uk
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