Although we spend most of our time at our family home on the Algarve, we do like to get out and explore the different regions of Portugal. This autumn, due to family illness we were limited as to have far we could travel and therefore needed to find a location within a couple of hours’ drive of our home and somewhere that was suitable for someone with limited mobility. Having done considerable research, we finally settled on a short break to Vila Nova da Milfontes, a beautiful riverside village on the Alentejo Coastline of Portugal.
The journey was scheduled to take us approximately 2 hours by car, but due to the recent fires in the area, there were several diversions that took us up into the mountains, skirting around Monchique. Unfortunately, this year the Alentejo region has been one of the most affect regions in Portugal with over 330 rural fires spread across 41,000 hectares of ‘burned area’. Various factors caused this years’ increase, the high summer temperatures, low humidity and strong winds across it’s vegetation of dry scrub, eucalyptus and pine trees exacerbated the spread. Sadly, there were also ‘human’ causes, negligence with cigarettes, waste burning and most distressing arson was also cited in some reports.
After an extended car journey, with diversions but giving us amazing views we finally reached our destination of Vila Nova da Milfontes, located in an area of outstanding beauty with a peaceful Alentejo feel. Despite its popularity, Vila Nova de Milfontes has retained its traditional Portuguese character, with whitewashed houses trimmed with blue, cobbled lanes, and flower-filled courtyards give the town an easy, timeless feel. The central square is a lively meeting point, lined with cafés and small restaurants serving freshly caught fish, octopus salad, and the region’s famous açorda alentejana (a fragrant bread soup with garlic and herbs).
Our accommodation was ‘somewhat’ basic, in fact, there are no luxury hotels in the area, mainly because the region attracts hikers, backpackers and surfers! We booked the best room we could find, in fact, it was a 2-room suite with the most amazing views across the river, which made up for the simple basic accommodation!
So what is there to do while staying in the region, one of the most popular things to do in Vila Nova de Milfontes is a boat tour on the river Mira, from quick tours on the river mouth to tours that incorporate hiking and a meal. It’s a great way to explore the riverine ecosystem and the surrounding areas. With the boat tour company MilEmotions, a 60-minute boat tour costs 20€ per person. Now, a private tour for up to 7 passengers, which combines a 2-hour hiking tour to Troviscais, lunch with foods typical from the Alentejo cuisine, and transfer back to Vila Nova de Milfontes, costs 60Euros per person. For the more adventurous, instead of going on a boat tour up the river, you can go kayaking or rent a SUP.
Milfontes is very popular for those who enjoy hiking and spending time in nature, and is one of the stages of the famous ‘Fishermans Hiking Trail (locally known as Trilho dos Pescadores). The total length of 226.5km, the trail is divided in 13 stages, being part of a bigger route called Rota Vicentina. Vila Nova de Milfontes’ stage has its’ start at the tourist office at Rua António Mantas. The regular orientation of the trail is north to south, but both ways are appropriately marked with signposts. Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve has a total of 14.7km and a duration of approximately 4 hours. The course will take you across the bridge, then alongside the river all the way to Praia das Furnas where you will continue to go down alongside the coast until you get to Almograve.
There is a huge variety of restaurants in and around the town, and the region is praised as one of the best regional cuisines in Portugal. Vila Nova de Milfontes is one of the best places to experience some of these foods, such as charcoal grilled fish, fish cataplanas, cured meats and cheeses, and the iconic black pork. With plenty of great restaurants catering to all budgets.
